The counter holds fourteen.

Two seatings a night, at 17:45 and 20:45. Ask for a night; the counter will tell you which menu the moon has planned for it.

• 01

  Parties of four at most. The counter is a row, not a room; larger tables would have to shout.

• 02

  The menu is taken whole. Allergies in writing 72 hours ahead, and the kitchen will meet them properly rather than by subtraction.

• 03

  A deposit of 120 per guest holds the seat and comes off the bill. Inside 72 hours it stays with the boats, who have already been paid.

• 04

  Children are welcome at the early seating from twelve years — the age at which a nine-course argument about adjectives becomes interesting.

• 05

  The telephone rings in an empty room during service. Write instead; writing gets answered between tides.

• 06

  An evening at the counter can be given to someone else — ask, and a card in ink will be posted to them.